Sunday, May 19, 2013

You can have Capri, I don't want it

First, an addendum to last nights journal entry: we were treated to a fireworks display last night from a church about 3mi away across the valley. Apparently there is some sort of pilgrimage going on this weekend and the fireworks are part of it. It was a nice touch to our dinner out on the terrace. In fact, as I sit here writing this, I can hear the fireworks again tonight.

Another day, another failed attempt at getting to Capri. Again rushing to catch the bus to Amalfi, but apparently on Sundays, the bus makes about 10 extra stops in small villages like Scala and Pontone. We were afraid that our 8:25 bus wouldn't make it down to Amalfi in time, but it did. Interestingly enough, we saw the same guy for the 4th time on the bus down. He always gets off at the bottom of the hill in Atrani. Where he goes from there, I have no idea, but he wears the same fading blue fishing hat and carries the same satchel every day. I assume he waits for the bus from Amalfi to Salerno or other points east.

Anyway, back to our Capri saga. We get down to Amalfi only to discover that no boats are running today, either. WTF do we have to do to get over to Capri? Anyway, we consider taking the bus to Sorrento, but the 9:30 bus is full before we even know it's loading up and we do not want to go to Sorrento for 1.5hrs in SRO on a bus. Back up to Ravello we go. Clearly someone somewhere doesn't want us to go to Capri.

Today apparently is some sort of festival day celebrating the patron saint of Ravello, so we were treated to a small concert from the local band (about 35 musicians of all ages) playing some nice instrumental music. People watching at these events is always a treat and today was no exception. Now, I do not pretend that I "blend in" with the locals (although I will proudly admit to being stopped and asked about stuff by "locals" on past European vacations), but some of the Americans on display in the main square were just ridiculous. Sometimes it's little things like trying to get into a church wearing wife beaters, workout shorts, and flip-flops. Sometimes it's watching people fumble around like idiots trying to work the bus ticket kiosk. Sometimes it's just not even _trying_ to say hello and please and thank you in the local language.

We had pizzas for lunch in the Vittorio and were not disappointed. It was here that Angela and I and Michele parted ways. Angela and I went to Villa Cimbrone to tour the gardens (which we didn't get to tour on Thursday night). On the way there, she got fitted for some custom sandals. The gardens at Villa Cimbrone were amazing. Much more impressive than Villa Rufolo yesterday. The views from the "Infinity Terrace" were stunning; 180 degrees from left to right up and down the Costiera Amalfitana.

We had a bottle of Ravello "Rosso" on the terrace and had a nice conversation with a British couple here on holidays and went to dinner about 7:15 at this local place called "Trattoria Cumpa' Cosimo." Apparently this place is pretty famous (although we had never read about it, so it's not _that_ famous), and it got packed by the time we left. We tried flash-fried anchovies (amazingly good), and I had a plate of spaghetti with different kinds of shell fish like clams, mussels, squid and shrimp in a garlic fish sauce. Angela and Michele split a mixed pasta plate with pesto, bolognese, ham and cheese crepes, marinara, and canneloni. Needless to say, it was excellent.

Tomorrow we leave Ravello and Antonio and the Parsifal for Orvieto and points north. It should take 4-6 hours to get there, and I am hoping to leave by 10am which will give us the afternoon/evening to enjoy what Orvieto has to offer. Finally get to sleep in, too, since there are no buses or boats to catch or be cancelled.

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